martes, diciembre 27, 2005

Mazunte I: Jay

I wanted to go back to Mazunte to exorcise it from past ghosts, and to celebrate the first anniversary of "me-ness": living by myself. On february the 1st I took my back pack and my tent and travelled south...

How much I enjoy taking the van in Pochutla early in the morning, when the landscape is covered with mist and fog and the weather is damp. The van drives through the fog heading towards the coast. Women and children, ready to sell their stuff in the beach, travel too with me, and some foreigners that have been doing some shopping earlier in Pochutla. It is always fun to share smiles with the children that keep staring into one's eye. They just can't get used to the sight of others, no matter how long these have been present in their native land: the intruders.
As I try to get a firm grip of the tubes in the bumpy truck, feeling the moist air against my face, I keep wondering about the days I am going to spend in Mazunte by myself. I have brought with me a pair of novels (though deep inside I know I won't open them at all). I know I will be spending the last hours of every afternoon in Punta Cometa, and the mornings tanning in Mermejita (this is a good time to come, the beaches will be deserted, the tourists that came in for the holidays will be gone). The nights I will be having dinner in some restaurant.

The van drops me at the crossroads of the main street and the one that leads to the beach. I take off my tennis shoes and tremble when I finally feel the already-warm sand. I know where to go... the place by the beach with all those freaking hens and roosters that scare the shit out of me. This trip is about exorcising... I keep telling to myself. I had been able to overcome my fear...before.

The sun is just a few meters above the horizon, still more red than orange, and I feel so happy. I start to unpack the tent to settle my camp. But then a low voice addresses to me: "hey! d'ya know what's the time?" (I still hadn't taken off my watch, which I was about to do as it is the rule). "Its half-past seven!" "Thanks!"

This is Jason, from beloved Vancouver. Jay's going to become my friend and I'm going to spend the next two days with him, but not quite yet... First, once I've settled, I get rid of jeans and shirt cause I'm decided to wear bikinis only! And a first morning walk, before breakfast, to greet the bay once more. There's so much to tell to it...

As I head back to my camp I meet Jason once more and this time we make a formal introduction. It is not difficult to become friends with this amazing guy and suddenly we start a conversation that is going to continue almost with no interruption for more than two days.
Jason, who changed his schedule to spend more time with me...

And thus it was: waking up early to swim across the bay; sharing breakfasts of pancakes soaked in caramel; exploring the depths of "la pozita", looking for tiny blue fish and spotted crabs, the mazuntes; watching The Sunset from the cliffs between Bahía Cometa and Mermejita while discussing love and relationships; walking through the road that goes from Mazunte to Zipol at 10 pm to arrive in El Aquimista starving, drunk with laughter; sharing a four-cheese pizza with bacon, and going back home, afterwards, again mojito-drunk; going salsa-dancing and playing pool in one of Mazunte's antros; sharing naps in the same hamoc, holding, timidly and in lethargy, each others' fingers... Until the time came to say goodbye. A farewell at the same well-known crossroads, where he took the taxi that would take him to the station. No farewell kisses (despite a moment's hesitation) but as I waved him goodbye in my freaking mind I was singing some notes of "Just like honey"...